Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, by Peter Elsner, Howard I. Maibach

By Peter Elsner, Howard I. Maibach

Thoroughly revised and increased, this moment version completely examines the wide variety of recent and rising cosmeceutical compounds from antiaging, skincare and service, moisturizing, and protecting compounds to brokers with antimicrobial and antiirritant houses. In 38 authoritative chapters, this reference describes technique engineering recommendations to make use of energetic parts in cosmetics, replacement medicines in dermatology, cosmeceuticals for photoaging and UV care, using progress elements in cosmecuticals, ingredients for the administration of undesirable facial hair, and the newest matters in shopper safeguard.

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Additional info for Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, Second Edition (Cosmetic Science and Technology, Volume 27)

Example text

Besides dealing with external inducers of oxidative attack, the skin has to cope with endogenous generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals, which are continuously produced during physiological cellular metabolism. To counteract the harmful effects of ROS, the skin is equipped with antioxidant systems, which maintain an equilibrium between pro- and antioxidants. , vitamin E) antioxidant mechanisms have been developed, which form an “antioxidative network” of closely interlinked components (Fig.

Pro has the highest water holding capacity among other amino acids under dry conditions. Synergistic hygroscopicity was found for Pro when combined with PCA, which supports the rationale for their abundant 30 Sakamoto coexistence in NMF (10). Urocanic acid (UA) is an end metabolite of histidine (His); its role has been unveiled recently as an immune regulator rather than an ultraviolet (UV) absorber, which it was long considered to be (11,12). UV exposure converts trans UA to cis isomer, which has an immune suppressing effect.

30), which opened the door for the use of amino acids in their physicochemical aspects. In the 1980s, applications of UA and its ester as a natural UV absorber and amino acid fatty esters with EO moieties as super fatting agents or coemulsifiers followed (31). In the 1990s, cholesterol esters of N-acylamino acid were developed as novel emollients with functions similar to celamides, which are the key components of lipid bilayers in SC as a barrier (32). Several advancements in the understanding of physiology in the SC and role of amino acids also occurred in the 1990s.

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